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The Climbing Doctor Podcast

Podcast The Climbing Doctor Podcast
Jared Vagy
The Climbing Doctor Podcast dives deep into how to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injuries. Jared Vagy interviews medical providers, coaches, climbers, ...

Episodios disponibles

5 de 19
  • TFCC injury: A Common Wrist Pain in Climbers - Kimmy Wiley
    In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and owner of Peak Pursuit Performance & Rehab- an online physical therapy and strength and conditioning service for outdoor athletes. While Kimmy has had experience in most physical therapy settings, she has found a passion for sports therapy- specifically for adventure sport athletics. During the winter months Kimmy travels with the U.S. Snowboard Halfpipe Team, helping them stay happy and healthy as they travel the world for training camps and competitions. When at home in Salt Lake, Kimmy can be found in the Wasatch Mountains climbing, snowboarding, or hiking with her dog, Nomad. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 08:41 Rehabilitation Approach 25:16 Returning to Climbing and Specific Movements 32:32 Conclusion and Contact Information Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  • Training With Your Cycle – Katrina Wong
    This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations.   Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities.  Chapters 00:00 Introduction 02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle 04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases 06:07 Hormones and their Roles 08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase 12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle 19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase 23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases 25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners  26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases 28:35 Final Thoughts  Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  • Climb On after a Concussion – Stacey Castaldo
    In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a physical therapist for guidance and exercises to aid in concussion rehabilitation. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background 01:14 Stacey's Personal Experience with Concussion 03:00 Signs and Symptoms of Concussion 08:00 Seeking Medical Attention and Diagnosis 11:00 Rehabilitation and Return to Climbing 24:00 Structured Return to Climbing Protocol 32:00 Physical Therapy Exercises for Concussion Recovery 38:00 Key Takeaways and Recommendations Stacey's Bio Stacey received her doctorate in physical therapy from California State University in Long Beach. Originally from Palos Verdes, she is a Southern California native and a lifetime athlete. A former competitive gymnast, varsity long distance runner, and avid snowboarder; she found rock climbing 4 years ago and has fallen in love with the sport. She was a member of the Climbing Special Interest Group while in PT school, where she gained valuable experience in learning to treat climbing specific injuries and wrote an article on returning to climbing after concussion after sustaining a concussion herself and struggling to get back on the wall. She currently works in the Orthopedic and Sports setting and has also worked as a Strength and Conditioning coach, and uses her fitness background to help athletes of all ages and levels stay active and doing what they love.  Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  • Tendons: Do I Load it or Rest it - Evan Ingerson
    In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries. Takeaways Tendons are the connective tissue that connects muscles to bone and play a crucial role in movement. Tendon injuries are common in climbers, with the most common areas being the elbow, rotator cuff, biceps, and hamstring. Tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy are different types of tendon injuries, each requiring a different approach to treatment and rehabilitation. Rest and proper loading techniques are essential for the healing of tendon injuries, and the progression of rehabilitation should be guided by the individual's symptoms and response to treatment. Evan Ingerson’s Bio Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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  • Climbing as Therapy for Mental Health – Beth Scott
    In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of recovery and rest. Beth emphasizes the importance of proper technique, body awareness, and listening to your body's signals. She provides practical exercises and tips that can be applied both in climbing and in everyday life. Overall, this conversation provides a comprehensive guide to climbing injury prevention and performance optimization. Takeaways Mental health is a broad category that encompasses various aspects of well-being, including anxiety, depression, and neurodivergence. Grounding exercises, such as the five senses exercise, can help climbers stay present and manage stress and anxiety. Deliberate breathing while climbing can improve focus, oxygenation, and mental clarity. Building a supportive community and engaging in social activities can contribute to better mental health in climbing.  Addressing mental health in a holistic manner is essential for climbers to optimize their overall well-being and performance. Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps. Chapters 00:00 Introduction 01:26 Understanding Mental Health for Climbers 03:30 Mental Health is Not Always Negative 05:18 Practical Tips for Improving Mental Health 06:00 Grounding Exercise: Five Senses 09:56 Breathing Techniques for Mental Health 23:26 Building Community for Mental Health  33:17 Final Thoughts Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps. CONTACT BETH SCOTT: [email protected] Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:  Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts  Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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The Climbing Doctor Podcast dives deep into how to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injuries. Jared Vagy interviews medical providers, coaches, climbers, and trainers to learn the best strategies to climb injury-free. Each episode covers a wide variety of topics including injury diagnosis, mobility training, strength exercises, and movement technique.
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