29 episodios
- Isabella Castro discusses neuromuscular re-education of the fingers, a method that leverages neuroplasticity to improve grip and finger control in climbers. She shares practical assessment techniques, exercises, and how this approach can prevent injuries and enhance climbing performance.
Isabella Castro's Bio
Isabella Castro is a third-year Doctor of Physical Therapy student at the University of Southern California. Originally from El Paso, Texas, Bella's interest in physical therapy grew from rock climbing at Hueco Tanks and seeing different injuries and analyzing movement. Through climbing, she developed a strong interest in injury prevention and rehabilitation, which has transferred to care across a variety of populations. During her time at USC, Bella has gained clinical experience in outpatient orthopedics, pediatrics, and acute inpatient care. Through her education, she hopes to use her knowledge of physical therapy to serve her community and help people stay active in the activities that are meaningful to them. She has a particular interest in working with climbers and hopes to incorporate climbing rehabilitation and performance into her future practice. Outside of physical therapy, Bella enjoys climbing, figure skating, cycling, and spending time outdoors.
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to neuromuscular re-education in climbing
02:03 What is neuromuscular re-education and why it matters
03:07 Training the fingers for climbing: beyond strength
04:01 Assessing neuromuscular deficiencies in climbers
05:57 Identifying grip issues and finger control problems
07:54 Range of motion and muscular control tests
09:24 Proprioception and joint position sense testing
12:14 Self-measuring finger control and proprioception
15:48 Framework for training: the rock rehab pyramid
16:35 Stretching, mobilization, and activation exercises
21:26 Transferring finger control to climbing with deadpoint drills
23:24 Using assisted hangs for neuromuscular training
25:31 Case study: before and after finger re-education
29:06 Final thoughts on neuromuscular control and injury prevention
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode
Social Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
The Resilient Climber Book / Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts
Injury Rehab Coures
The Resilient Climber Course / Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches - In this episode, Sam Lemminger, a physical therapist specializing in pelvic floor health, discusses the importance of pelvic floor awareness for climbers and everyone interested in body performance. She explains how understanding and connecting with this often-overlooked area can improve climbing performance and overall well-being.
Sam Lemminger's Bio
Sam Lemminger is a Fort Collins, CO-based physical therapist specializing in treating orthopedic injuries and pelvic health. Sam has additional training in internal pelvic floor assessment and treatment, dry needling, manual therapy, and rehabilitation of rock climbers and CrossFit athletes. Her goals as a physical therapist include helping people of all ability levels optimize their health and fitness and reduce pain to feel their best while pursuing their passions. In addition to clinical care, she is a teaching assistant with the Spine Management division of the Institute of Clinical Excellence. When away from the clinic, Sam loves being active through hiking, CrossFit, climbing, running, or snowboarding. When it's time to slow down, you can find her baking bread and pastries!
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Pelvic Floor and Climbing
02:40 Understanding the Pelvic Floor
05:22 The Importance of Pelvic Floor in Performance
08:04 Common Issues and Misconceptions
10:52 Assessing Pelvic Floor Health
13:25 Symptoms of Pelvic Floor Dysfunction
16:12 Treatment and Management Strategies
19:34 Understanding Pelvic Floor Dysfunction
21:21 Stages of Treatment for Pelvic Floor Dysfunction
23:10 Initial Assessment and Treatment Session
26:53 Active Engagement of Pelvic Floor and Core
30:20 Progressing Beyond Initial Treatment
33:37 The Importance of Nutrition and Recovery
Links and Resources for This Episode:
🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode
Social Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
The Resilient Climber Book / Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts
Injury Rehab Coures
The Resilient Climber Course / Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches - This episode explores the complex relationship between pain, fear, and climbing injuries, featuring Riley Hess, a PT student with personal climbing injury experience. Discover how pain science, central sensitization, and psychological strategies like graded exposure and expectancy violation can help climbers overcome persistent pain and rebuild confidence.
Riley Hess's Bio
Riley Hess is a recent Doctor of Physical Therapy graduate from MCPHS University who will begin her career working in the acute care setting following licensure. Her passion for movement began outside of the classroom through climbing, where a love for both performance and community sparked an interest in human movement and rehabilitation. Since starting climbing in 2019, Riley has worked in the climbing industry through coaching and has expanded into providing educational talks focused on pain management and injury prevention. Outside of the clinic, Riley enjoys volunteering as a ski patroller and spending as much time in the outdoors as possible.
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Overcoming Fear and Pain in Climbing
02:40 Understanding Pain and Its Nuances
05:22 Personal Experiences with Injury and Pain
06:56 Exploring Central Sensitization
08:24 Pain Management Strategies for Climbers
12:02 Graded Exposure and Expectancy Violation Techniques
16:03 The Role of Fear in Climbing and Recovery
21:06 Final Thoughts on Pain Management and Recovery
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode
Social Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts
Injury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches - In this conversation, Marie-Eve Joanisse discusses the significance of pull-ups for climbers, exploring their biomechanics, variations, and injury prevention strategies. She emphasizes the importance of proper technique, the role of different muscle groups, and how to tailor training to individual needs. The discussion also covers common injuries associated with pull-ups and offers insights into effective training techniques and progressions for climbers of all levels.
Marie-Eve Joanisse's Bio
Marie-Eve is a physiotherapist based in the Montreal area, in Canada. Being a climber herself for many years, she has been involved at different levels in the climbing community, such as by volunteering in local competitions and working at her university's climbing facility during her studies. Recently graduated, Marie-Eve has begun dedicating part of her clinical practice to climbers at a local gym, and is working hard to expand her knowledge in this field. She now also acts as a sports first responder at climbing competitions. Outside of her clinical work, she enjoys climbing, snowboarding and doing virtually any outdoor sports.
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Pull-Ups and Their Importance
02:05 Understanding Pull-Up Biomechanics
09:00 Injury Insights and Prevention Strategies
15:06 Exploring Different Pull-Up Variations
23:57 Training Techniques and Progressions
30:56 Final Thoughts and Key Takeaways
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode
Social Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts
Injury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches - In this conversation, The Climbing Doctor interviews Stephen Kiraly, a physical therapy student, about shoulder hypermobility, particularly in climbers. They discuss what shoulder hypermobility is, how to assess it, its benefits and drawbacks, and rehabilitation strategies. The conversation emphasizes the importance of education for climbers regarding their shoulder health and provides practical tips for managing hypermobility through exercises and movement techniques.
Stephen Kiraly's Bio
Stephen Kiraly is a third-year Student Physical Therapist at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Ever since he finally gave in to his friends bugging him to climb, he has not looked back, and climbing has become a central part of his life. Through climbing, he has had amazing experiences and met even more amazing individuals. Outside of climbing, he enjoys trail running, backpacking, biking, soccer, and basically anything outdoors. He is currently interested in staying in the climbing PT world upon graduation in May 2026. Reach out to Stephen at skiraly8@yahoo.com or on Instagram @zoliclimbs if you'd like to connect about climbing, rehab, or life as a future climbing-focused PT.
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Shoulder Hypermobility
01:33 Understanding Shoulder Hypermobility
05:21 Assessing Shoulder Hypermobility
10:27 Benefits and Drawbacks of Hypermobility
13:21 Rehabilitation Strategies for Hypermobility
24:12 Movement Techniques for Climbers
27:38 Takeaways and Final Thoughts
Links and Resources for This Episode:
📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode
Social Media and Webpage:
🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts
Injury Rehab Coures
Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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Acerca de The Climbing Doctor Podcast
The Climbing Doctor Podcast dives deep into how to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injuries. Jared Vagy interviews medical providers, coaches, climbers, and trainers to learn the best strategies to climb injury-free. Each episode covers a wide variety of topics including injury diagnosis, mobility training, strength exercises, and movement technique.
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